Review: Apex Flux 3000W Pro-Series E-Bike Conversion Kit (2026 Edition)

For those of you already holding a soldering iron and credit card, here is the quick verdict.

The Good:

• Raw Torque: 160Nm peak torque transforms any steel frame into a hill-eating monster.

• Silence: The 2026 sine-wave controller is whisper quiet, even at 50 mph.

• Thermal Management: The stator now includes ferrofluid injection ports and improved heatsinks.

• Regen Braking: Variable regenerative braking is smoother than previous iterations.

The Bad:

• Battery Demands: You cannot run this on cheap cells. You need a high-discharge 72V pack.

• Installation Difficulty: This is not for novices. Requires torque arms (not always included) and likely frame spreading.

• Weight: The rear wheel alone adds significant unsprung mass, affecting suspension dynamics.

Best For: DIYers building an "Enduro" style e-bike or converting a vintage moped chassis who understand voltage sag and phase amps.

When you order a 3000W ebike conversion kit in 2026, you expect more than just a motor in a box. The Apex Flux kit arrived in a heavy, reinforced crate—a good sign.

The Motor: Direct Drive Titan

The heart of the system is a 3000W continuous rated Direct Drive (DD) hub motor. It uses 45mm stator magnets and thicker copper windings than the 2024 models I tested previously. The aluminum shell has revised finning for better air cooling, crucial because DD motors are notorious for heat soaking during long climbs. I measured the phase wires at 8 AWG; adequate, though if you plan on pushing peak bursts of 80A, you might want to consider a future upgrade to 6 AWG.

The Controller: A Significant Leap

The included controller is a re-branded Sabvoton-style FOC unit rated for 80A continuous and 150A phase current. It's programmable via Bluetooth, allowing us to tweak acceleration curves without needing a laptop. This makes the motor controller swap from a stock, locked system to this aftermarket beast incredibly rewarding.

The Peripherals

The kit includes a half-twist throttle (my preference for high power), a digital gauge cluster (TFT color display), brake levers with cutoff sensors, and a pedal-assist sensor (PAS). Frankly, the PAS feels like an afterthought on a 3kW build—you are going to be using the throttle 95% of the time.

Let’s be clear: fitting a 3kW motor onto a standard mountain bike frame is engineering brinkmanship. For this review, I installed the kit on a reinforced steel Enduro frame, which is the standard platform for a 3kw ebike build.

Dropout Spacing and Torque Arms

The motor axle is M16 with 10mm flats. Standard bicycle dropouts are 135mm or 142mm. This motor requires 150mm spacing. If you are using a standard bike, you will be stretching the frame (cold setting), which compromises aluminum.

Safety Critical: You must install dual torque arms. The torque generated by this motor (over 150Nm) will spin the axle inside your dropouts, snapping your phase wires and ruining your frame instantly. I used 5mm thick stainless steel torque arms anchored to the chainstays.

Wiring and Loom Management

The move to 2026 standards means we finally have decent waterproof Julet connectors for the signal wires. However, the phase wire connection block is still a weak point. I replaced the stock junction box with an XT150 connector set to handle the high amperage without melting.

Once mechanically sound, the real work began with the controller configuration. This is where the motor controller swap pays off.

Using the companion app, I set the system voltage to 72V (20S Li-ion). The "Self-Learn" mode is vastly improved this year. You lift the rear wheel, hit 'Learn' in the app, and the motor spins gently to detect Hall sensor angles and phase sequence. It took 30 seconds to calibrate perfectly.

My Tuning Profile for Testing:

• Battery Current: Limit set to 60A (protecting my BMS).

• Phase Current: Set to 140A (for maximum launch torque).

• Throttle Response: Linear (to avoid the 'whiskey throttle' jerkiness).

• Flux Weakening: Enabled (adds about 5-8 mph to top speed at the cost of efficiency).

This level of granularity allows you to map the throttle exactly how you want it. You can make a 3kW monster feel like a tame 750W commuter for navigating pedestrian areas, then flip a switch to unleash full power.

The user interface is often where DIY kits feel cheap, but the digital gauge cluster included here is crisp. It’s a 3.5-inch IPS color display that remains visible in direct sunlight.

Key Metrics Displayed:

• Real-time Wattage (critical for managing battery sag).

• Motor Temperature (via the internal thermistor).

• Controller Temperature.

• Battery Voltage (down to 0.1V precision).

I appreciated the throttle replacement. The stock throttles on cheaper kits often have a large "dead zone" at the start of the rotation. This unit engages instantly and offers smooth modulation, which is vital when you have this much power on tap. However, the grips themselves were hard plastic—I swapped them for ergonomic locking rubber grips immediately.

So, how does it ride? In a word: Violent, if you want it to be.

Acceleration and Torque

From a standstill, the torque is immediate. On pavement, it lifts the front wheel effortlessly if you aren't leaning forward. The acceleration from 0 to 30 mph is faster than most cars in city traffic. This is the primary safety feature of a high-power build—the ability to keep up with and distance yourself from traffic flow.

Top Speed and Efficiency

On a flat straight with a fully charged 72V battery, I hit a GPS-verified 52 mph (83 km/h). With Flux Weakening enabled, I touched 56 mph, but the motor temperature began to climb rapidly.

Thermal Performance

This is where the 2026 engineering shines. In previous years, a 3kW motor would overheat (hit 110°C) after 10 minutes of hard uphill riding. The Apex Flux stayed under 85°C during my 15-minute torture test up a 12% grade. The improved stator lamination and airflow design are working. However, if you plan on continuous climbing, I still recommend adding aftermarket ferrofluid (Statorade) to bridge the thermal gap between the stator and the shell.

Range

Power consumes energy. Riding conservatively at 20 mph, I achieved efficiency of 25 Wh/mile. Riding aggressively at 40+ mph, consumption jumped to 65 Wh/mile. You need a big battery. A 72V 20Ah pack is the absolute minimum I would recommend; a 30Ah or 40Ah pack is preferred for any serious range.

The 3000W ebike conversion kit is not for everyone. It blurs the line between bicycle and motorcycle in a way that requires responsible ownership and mechanical sympathy.

If you are looking to build a reliable commuter for bike paths, stick to 750W or 1000W geared hubs. But, if you are undertaking an electric moped conversion, revitalizing a heavy cargo bike, or building a dedicated off-road machine, the Apex Flux 3000W kit offers incredible value.

It delivers reliable, silent power with a controller interface that finally feels modern. Just remember: the kit is only half the equation. The safety of your build depends entirely on your chassis choice, torque arms, and battery quality.